Classification of fragrance concentrations – how do parfum, eau de parfum, eau de toilette and eau de cologne differ?

What is fragrance concentration?

Every fragranced product – whether it is a parfum, an eau de parfum or an eau de toilette – is built on the same principle. The fragrance composition, a concentrate made up of natural and synthetic aromatic materials, is dissolved in alcohol, usually with a small addition of water and auxiliary substances.

Concentration describes the percentage share of that composition in the finished product. The higher the share of concentrate, the more odorous material there is in the bottle. This does not automatically mean greater longevity or higher quality – that is decided by the construction of the composition itself. It is worth remembering that a fragrance concentrate is not a single oil but a finished formula created by a perfumer. It is made up of many components – naturals, synthetics and ready-made bases – which the manufacturer dilutes with alcohol to the required concentration.

The figures most commonly quoted are around 15–30% of fragrance composition for Parfum (Extrait de Parfum), 10–20% for Eau de Parfum, 5–15% for Eau de Toilette and 2–5% for Eau de Cologne. The lower the concentration, the greater the share of perfumer's alcohol.

Why concentration does not tell the whole story

Concentration is an important parameter, but on its own it does not allow you to predict how a fragrance will behave on the skin. Two compositions with an identical concentration – two eaux de parfum at around 18% concentrate, for instance – can differ in longevity and projection: one will be perceptible for two hours, the other for eight. One will stay subtle, the other will fill the room.

What decides this is not the percentages but the properties of the raw materials the composition is built from. Every aromatic substance has its own volatility and its own way of evaporating, and it is precisely these characteristics that shape the perception of the finished fragrance more than anything else. Citrus oils are a good example: bergamot, lemon, lime and grapefruit. Their molecules are naturally very volatile, so they disappear from the skin quickly – whether they appear in an extrait or in an eau de toilette. Base materials such as Galaxolide, Habanolide, Iso E Super and Ambroxan, on the other hand, are exceptionally tenacious and substantive. They can hold on the skin for many hours, and at the same time extend the presence of the other elements of the composition.

This is why a citrus eau de parfum may prove less long-lasting than a woody or musky eau de toilette. Concentration answers the question of how much composition there is in the bottle; it says nothing about the materials it was built from – and it is those that determine the longevity and the character of a scent to the greatest extent.

Types of concentration:

• Parfum / Extrait — 15–40% · 8–12+ godzin · wieczór, wyjątkowe okazje
• Eau de Parfum — 10–20% · 4–8 godzin · codzienny użytek
• Eau de Toilette — 5–15% · 2–4 godziny · na co dzień, w lecie, do biura
• Eau de Cologne — 2–5% · 1–2 godziny · odświeżenie, sport
• Eau Fraîche — 1–3% · do 1 godziny · intensywne odświeżenie
• After Shave — 1–3% · krótka · pielęgnacja po goleniu
• Body / Hair Mist — 1–3% · krótka · delikatna warstwa zapachu
• Zapach do wnętrz — różne · różna · nie do kontaktu ze skórą
  

Parfum / Extrait de Parfum

Parfum, also known as Extrait de Parfum, is the highest concentration in the classic hierarchy. It usually contains between 15 and 30% of fragrance composition, which makes it the most concentrated and the longest-lasting form of a perfume. Contrary to popular belief, however, it does not always mean the strongest projection. An Extrait de Parfum often stays closer to the skin than an eau de parfum or an eau de toilette. Instead of creating a distinct cloud of scent, it unfolds more calmly, more deeply and more intimately. For that reason, one or two sprays on the neck or the wrists are usually enough.

A higher share of concentrate also changes the way the composition develops. The notes evaporate more slowly and the base materials become more exposed. This is why the Parfum and the eau de toilette from the same fragrance line can feel like two different interpretations of the same composition – in the extrait, heavier materials such as woods, resins and balsams play a greater role, while in the lighter versions they remain no more than a backdrop.

Parfum is at its best on cooler days, in the evening, or whenever you want the scent to stay on the skin for a long time. In high temperatures, and in places where an intense fragrance may disturb other people, it is usually better to apply it very sparingly.

Eau de Parfum

Currently the most popular fragrance category. It contains 10–20% of fragrance composition, offering a balance between longevity, projection and everyday comfort. In most cases it allows the composition to develop fully and to hold on the skin for many hours without becoming overwhelming.

Eau de parfum is today the format most often chosen by niche and luxury houses. For many compositions it is the primary – and frequently the only – version available. Its versatility makes it suitable for almost any situation: everyday wear, the office and university as much as evenings out. It is a good choice for anyone looking for a long-lasting, well-balanced scent that does not call for frequent reapplication and works well for most of the year.

Eau de Toilette

Eau de Toilette usually contains 5–15% of fragrance composition and is unfairly seen as a ‘lesser’ version of an eau de parfum. In reality it is not a compromise on quality, but an entirely different way of presenting a scent.

It is a concentration that works particularly well in citrus, green, fougère and aquatic compositions. Their character rests on freshness and lightness, which is why the natural transience of these materials is part of the intended effect. A higher concentration will not necessarily make them last longer; more often it will significantly change the character of the whole composition.

Eau de toilette is at its best in everyday use – during the warmer months, at work, at university and anywhere a fresh, discreet and unobtrusive scent is what you want.

Eau de Cologne

Eau de Cologne is the lightest of the classic fragrance concentrations, usually containing 2–5% of composition. Its history goes back to the early eighteenth century, when the Italian perfumer Johann Maria Farina created a fresh citrus-herbal composition in Cologne – the city that gave the whole category its name.

Originally, eau de cologne was not a less intense version of a perfume but a separate type of fragrance – light, refreshing and intended for generous application. It was there to give a feeling of freshness and comfort, not to leave a trail lasting for hours. To this day, classic colognes are built above all on citruses, neroli, lavender and herbal accords. They are at their best in summer, after a bath, after shaving, or anywhere immediate refreshment is what counts. It is a category with a history and a character of its own.

Eau Fraîche

Often left out of the classifications, Eau Fraîche is the lightest of the classic fragranced forms. It usually contains less than 3% of fragrance composition, so its effect is short-lived and geared from the outset towards quick refreshment. Unlike eau de cologne, some Eau Fraîche formulas contain only a small amount of alcohol or are based mainly on water. That makes them suitable for anyone who prefers gentler fragranced products.

It is the ideal concentration for hot days, after physical exertion, or as a way of freshening up during the day. It is not meant to replace a perfume – it offers a light, fresh accent of scent at moments when a more intense composition would be unnecessary.

After Shave

After Shave is first and foremost a skincare product to which a fragrance composition has been added. Its primary task is to soothe the skin after shaving, not to provide a long-lasting scent. Classic aftershave splashes contain a high proportion of alcohol, which acts as an antiseptic, together with soothing ingredients such as allantoin, panthenol and plant extracts. The fragrance composition usually accounts for no more than 1–3% of the formula and is there to accompany the care.

Today After Shave products also come as balms, gels and lotions, but their function remains unchanged. The scent is only a complement to a product whose main purpose is to restore and comfort the skin after shaving.

Fragrance mists

Unlike perfumes, mists are intended for frequent and generous application, and their task is to provide a short-lived feeling of freshness. Body mist is applied directly to the skin. Its scent is light and holds for a relatively short time, which is why reapplying it during the day is common practice. The compositions are most often fresh, fruity or floral. Hair mist is a product developed specifically with hair in mind. Because hair holds scent longer than skin while being more sensitive to alcohol, hair mists contain less of it or are completely alcohol-free. They are also often enriched with conditioning ingredients such as oils or silicones.

Pillow mist already belongs to the category of home fragrance products. It is usually built on compositions with lavender, chamomile or other relaxing notes and serves to create a pleasant atmosphere before sleep rather than to scent a room intensely.

Home fragrances

This category includes reed diffusers, room sprays, scented candles and oils for burners. Although they contain fragrance compositions, they are not intended for contact with the skin and are not an alternative to perfume.

Their formulas are designed with the scent of a space in mind, not the scent of a body. The compositions have to evaporate at room temperature or under the influence of heat, so they use different carriers and often different raw materials than perfumes. Diffusers work thanks to special solvents that carry the scent up the rattan reeds – MMB (3-methoxy-3-methyl-1-butanol), for example – while candles release it as the wax melts.

Does a higher concentration mean a better perfume?

Concentration tells you only how much fragrance composition there is in a product, not how good that product is. The character of a perfume is determined above all by the raw materials used, the construction of the formula and the perfumer's intent.

Classic compositions conceived from the outset as eaux de toilette are a good example. Dior Eau Sauvage functioned in exactly this concentration for decades, as did Chanel No. 5, available for many years as an Eau de Toilette as well. These were not weaker or inferior versions, but compositions created with a particular character and a particular development on the skin in mind.

Nor does every scent gain from a higher concentration. Fresh citrus and green compositions often sound best as eaux de toilette, keeping their lightness, their airiness and their natural freshness. In practice, then, the best concentration is not the highest one, but the one that best conveys the creator's intent and fulfils its function.

How to match the concentration to the occasion

Rather than following a simple hierarchy of concentrations, it is worth matching them to the situation and to the character of the scent.

For summer and high temperatures, an eau de toilette or an eau de cologne works best. Light, citrus and fresh compositions evaporate faster by nature, and heat will additionally boost their projection.

For work and everyday wear, an eau de toilette or a subtle eau de parfum is a good choice. The scent stays perceptible at close range without dominating a shared space.

For evenings and special occasions, reach for an eau de parfum or a Parfum (Extrait de Parfum). A lower temperature and a longer wear time let the composition develop and show the full range of its character.

When travelling, a small bottle of eau de toilette or Parfum is the practical solution. The first gives you the freedom to reapply more often, the second delivers high performance from a small amount of product.